Iceland Self-Drive (5-Day Itinerary): A First Journey into the Arctic
5 Days. 1 Car. Endless Weather
Iceland Self-Drive
Chasing waterfalls, walking between continents.
Prologue: Why Iceland? Why Now?
My first journey into the Arctic began in Iceland, and I didn't expect it to come so soon. This trip taught me more than I imagined — about travel, about solitude, and about listening to myself. I often thought of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty and its quiet reminder to step out, to search for your own "No. 25" moment.
At the end of my exchange programme, I thought I had already found that moment in Norway. Yet standing on this Nordic island, surrounded by glaciers, wind, and endless roads, I felt something just as powerful. I was deeply moved by the chance to visit this raw, Arctic world — a place that doesn't rush you, but instead asks you to slow down and feel everything.
🌌 Why Iceland?
I'm a huge Walter Mitty fan — and of course, the aurora was another reason. Iceland feels like one of the most untouched places on Earth, with its glaciers, fjords, volcanoes, ice fields, and raw landscapes. It's truly a lifetime destination, especially for nature lovers.
We visited in mid-October 2024, which is considered one of the best shoulder seasons to catch the Northern Lights. I never expected my roommate to invite me along, and being able to split the costs made the trip feel much more manageable.
🚗 Self-Drive?
If you're confident handling unexpected situations, I'd recommend self-driving. It gives you full freedom — you control your pace, stops, and route. The downside? Everything falls on you: navigation, safety, time management, and decision-making.
Winter note: Daylight is short, weather changes rapidly, and night falls between 3-4 p.m. If travelling with more than two people, self-driving becomes far more practical than joining a tour.
🗺️ Route Planning
A full ring road trip needs at least 9 days, especially in winter. Weather disruptions are common, and safety always comes first.
For shorter trips, the South Coast + Golden Circle is the most realistic option. Distances between attractions are manageable (usually no more than two hours), and the landscapes are incredibly diverse.
On 18 October, I arrived alone at Keflavík Airport. The weather outside was far worse than I had imagined — gale-force winds, relentless rain, and darkness swallowing everything beyond the terminal doors.
My plan was simple: take the local Airport Bus 55 to my guesthouse. I stayed inside the airport for dinner, waiting for the 8:30 p.m. bus. Missing it would mean waiting for the very last one of the night.
I had done my research. Icelandic taxi fares are notoriously expensive, so the bus was my only realistic option. But once outside, nothing was clear. In the heavy rain and darkness, the signage led me in circles. I asked several people — tourists like myself — but no one knew where the bus stop was.
After nearly fifteen minutes of wandering in the rain, I finally found it.
I waited there for almost half an hour. My coat, gloves, and backpack were completely soaked. I shifted between benches, shivering uncontrollably, waiting stubbornly for a bus that never came.
Then Iceland seemed to play a cruel joke on me.
The temperature hovered around 5°C, but the wind made it feel far colder. Time passed. No headlights. No bus. Eventually, my body gave in. I rushed back into the airport to warm up and accepted defeat.
Outside, several taxis were waiting. I casually asked two men smoking near the entrance if they knew any drivers heading toward my area. They showed me a price on their phones — 22,000 ISK — claiming it was already discounted.
My mind raced. Seven hundred Malaysian ringgit for a ten-minute ride?
I asked for five minutes to think. It was already past 9 p.m., and the situation was only getting worse. Then a memory flashed through my mind — some Icelandic guesthouses partner with taxi companies.
I searched frantically and found it. Even better, I remembered my SIM card included free calls within Europe.
I hesitated. Then I called.
The driver answered immediately and told me to wait inside the airport — it was far too cold outside.
And then he appeared.
Tall, nearly 190 cm, dressed entirely in black, around forty-five years old. He walked toward me slowly, phone in hand. One of his legs wasn't steady, but his presence felt warm and calm.
His first questions were simple: "Have you eaten?" "You're alone?"
"Yes," I replied. "Just me."
As we drove, he started talking.
"Don't expect a bus to show up in this bloody weather," he laughed.
I thanked him, saying I'd probably still be waiting outside if not for him. When I told him about the taxi price I'd been quoted earlier, he shook his head.
"They're mad. Charging you that much? Utterly insane."
Then he asked why I was travelling alone in Iceland.
"My friends arrive tomorrow," I said. "They're coming from another country."
I asked him in return, "Do you ever feel lonely here?"
He thought for a moment.
"Winter can be harsh," he said. "But we Icelanders live alongside the world. Nature, life, everything. Isn't that fascinating?"
As we arrived, he patted my shoulder.
That night, Iceland didn't greet me with northern lights or calm skies — it welcomed me with humanity.
Seljalandsfoss
The most majestic 200-foot waterfall I've ever seen in my life. I walked behind the cascading falls and experienced a view that was truly outstanding — water thundering around me while the Icelandic landscape stretched beyond.
Víkurfjara Black Sand Beach
I suggest wearing boots — it can get mucky. But more importantly: don't aim for the perfect photo and let the tide catch you.
Dyrhólaey
We didn't visit this spot as the weather turned dark earlier than expected.
Ice chunks from the Breidamerkurjokull glacier calve into Jökulsárlón lagoon, then wash onto the black volcanic sand, creating a striking contrast that gave this beach its name. It's one of the most breathtaking stops along Iceland's South Coast — and a great place to spot Icelandic seals and even orca whales.
Fjallsárlón
Fjallsárlón is the second-largest glacier lagoon you can conveniently visit along the Ring Road in southern Iceland. We arrived on a misty, foggy, rainy day with terrible visibility. Still, I'm glad we made it — the eerie, mysterious vibes of blue glaciers hovering on the lake were unforgettable.
Skaftafell National Park
I have to admit — it's a small regret that we didn't have enough time to properly explore Skaftafell. Typically, Skaftafell is one of Iceland's most popular tourist attractions, with a 30-minute uphill walk leading to Svartifoss waterfall, surrounded by dramatic basalt columns.
Kerið Crater
A beautiful crater with a vivid blue-green lake at the bottom. You can walk down to the lake (though it will be slippery in wet or freezing conditions) or walk around the rim.
Gullfoss Waterfall
A must-visit spot on the Golden Circle. Gullfoss drops in two dramatic tiers into the rugged canyon of the Hvítá River. The view is especially spectacular during winter.
Brúarfoss
At that moment, I wished I had a drone to capture everything, especially the landscape from above. The scale is immense — the glacier and river feeding it are beyond imagination. We all agreed that Brúarfoss was stunning, and we lucked out by having the place to ourselves for a while.
If you only see one waterfall in Iceland, make it this one.
Þingvellir National Park
A nice walk through a truly magical place. The view of the tectonic plates — where the North American and Eurasian plates are pulling apart — is simply amazing.
Final Thoughts
If you're a nature lover or hiking enthusiast, please stop at every destination and explore on your own. You'll find precious, peaceful moments that no itinerary can plan for. Don't rush from place to place — you'll miss something irreplaceable.
I'd say Iceland is the best country to test every couple, friendship, and family bond. Everyone must play their role: some are planners, others are emotional supporters, and some are chefs or photographers. It takes teamwork.
If you love the aurora and wish to chase it, be prepared not to sleep deeply during winter. Sometimes the lights hide nearby; other times, they stay in the far north, and you'll need to drive a long way to find them. This part is all about weather and fate. I didn't see the aurora — the weather during winter is uncertain, and anything is possible.
Essential Apps & Resources
Weather & Aurora Forecasting:
- My Aurora Forecast — Real-time aurora alerts
- Windy — Detailed wind and weather
- Windfinder — Wind conditions